Sunday September 16th – Santiago, Valparaiso,
Isla Negra.
We were to meet in the lobby at 9, so when we didn’t awaken until after 8 it
was a bit of a rush to eat breakfast and get ready. Larry ran across the street
to an ATM to get pesos. Hernan and Marcos brought a larger van so there was
plenty of room for all 10 of us. They also put a Canadian flag in the window of
the van “so everyone will know we’re not Americans”. We drove toward the coast
through beautiful misty valleys lined with vineyards. At a pit stop we saw other
tourists having a wine tasting even though it was only 10 am. The fruit trees
are in bloom and most others are just faintly green. We admired prolific orange
and yellow small poppies along the roadside and bright mauve flowers on
otherwise naked trees. Many eucalyptus and pine groves – soft, fast-growing
wood exported to China to make paper. Our first stop was Isla Negra, the home
of Pablo Naruda, right on the edge of the Pacific. Cathy had been reading us
translations of some of his beautiful poetry on the way. It’s a fascinating
place and he was obviously a very interesting man. He collected everything from
ships’ figureheads to wine bottles to snail shells. He built the house to
resemble a ship or a train. He and his third wife are buried overlooking the
sea, on the grounds. From Isla Negra we moved on to a lovely restaurant in Vina
del Mar, where we enjoyed a late lunch/early dinner with a panoramic view of
the ocean. After a stop at a lapis lazuli store and a short tour of Valparaiso
we headed back toward Santiago through wine country as the light began to fade
and the western sky lit up with pink. Somehow, once again, we’ve arrived in a
country at the time of the national holiday. September 19th is Chile’s
Independence Day and most people have the whole week off for one long party. We
had to detour through a parking lot in one village where the main street was
blocked off by a huge crowd. There were food stalls and entertainment. We saw a
guy in a clown suit performing in a busy intersection, hanging off the side of
a taxi as it drove by. There are flags everywhere.
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